Dining out: Nice touches at Szechuan House
by Celeste H. Breitenbach
news@timesheraldnews.com
Hmm, what are Aromatic Spareribs, my friend wondered aloud as we entered Szechuan House at 1427 York Rd. and saw them listed as the Special of the Day at $12.95.
We were barely seated in a comfortable booth with menus in hand when a pot of hot tea and a plate of noodles with two bowls of dipping sauces were set before us.
When he asked Nancy, our very pleasant Asian server, about the Aromatic Spareribs, she replied that it was how they were cooked – like Aromatic Shrimp. That told us exactly nothing.
Glancing at the menu, we noticed that Aromatic Shrimp was preceded by a red chili – meaning “hot and spicy which can be adjusted to your taste.” Could the Spareribs be toned down – way down? Yes.
He decided to try the Special and also ordered a cup of Creamy Seafood Soup ($2). I settled on a cup of Egg Drop Soup ($1.25) and the Shrimp with Cashew Nuts ($9.25).
As we awaited our meal, a steady trickle of diners filled the room to capacity. Among them were several Asians (some speaking in their native language; always a good sign in any ethnic restaurant).
Before our soups arrived, Nancy brought a dish containing warm damp washcloths – a nice touch. The soups were top notch. His Creamy Seafood Soup was indeed creamy and filled with chunks of lobster, shrimp and mushrooms. My Egg Drop Soup probably would qualify as the supreme comfort food reminding a Chinese person of just how mamasan made it.
As always in an Oriental restaurant, the servings were extremely generous. We would find ourselves (just like everyone we noticed) leaving with the ubiquitous white boxes at the conclusion of our stay.
His Aromatic Spareribs Special consisted of 16 “not at all greasy” individual spareribs each about two inches in length with a “very special unique flavor” served with shredded cabbage, broccoli florets, shallots and peas. “Delicious,” he decided.
My shrimp were of nice size, perfectly prepared with an abundance of cashew nuts, diced carrots, peas and water chestnut slices served with a side bowl of white rice.
The only thing that detracted from my total enjoyment of this dinner is that it was served on plates that had seen better days. The rims were faded and chipped. Also, the restaurant’s drab long narrow entrance to the dining room could be gussied up. The combination gives somewhat a feeling of dishabille to what otherwise is an almost elegant room with sparkling crystal chandeliers reflecting in the attractive Oriental art deco prints lining the walls above the booths that surround the room.
Nancy’s service was impeccable. At our meal’s conclusion she brought another dish containing warm damp washcloths and a complimentary dish of sherbet topped with a fortune cookie. A lovely send-off.
With tax and tip, our dinner for two came to $30.72.
Restaurant’s Rating:
Food – 3 forks
Service – 3 forks
Atmosphere – 2.5 forks
Cost: $6.25 – $20.95